tramming a vmc - alt.machines.cnc,i put an end mill in the spindle, and a piece of scrap in the vise, and make a round cut on the top of the material. this produces a flat ring that is parallel to the xy planes of motion. (note: if the machine ways are worn, it will not be completely flat!) i move to the center of the ring, and replace the end mill with a dial indicator on a mount..mini-mill spindle/column alignment | machinistblog.com,so while the mill was disassembled for installation of a digital read out, i decided to correct the problem. the first step was to place a straight shaft ( mcmaster carr – ½” ceramic coated aluminum, 15″ or longer (1031k14, $9) in a collet and make sure it is mounted on the axis of the spindle..
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if you thought tramming the mini-mill was laborious, try tramming the round-column mill drill. the main problem with the design (which also makes it affordable) is the round column's mounting method. it's basically the round column mounted to its base plate secured to the base with four bolts.
attach a pencil type laser pointer to the bottom of the spindle collar with an adel clamp. push the button to activate the laser, and make a mark on the wall where it hits. move the head, and on return, when the laser hits the mark, you have it back in position.
tramming reconsidered •every time the head is moved up or down to switch between collet and drill chuck, the tramm of the mill is in question. •what matters is the orientation of the spindle to the workpiece. •theory: if you can’t exactly tramm the mill, tramming the workpiece will work just as well.
luthor has obviously never used a boring head on a round column mill/drill. basically, without reading the above responses thoroughly, you need to shim the column mount at the base casting to adjust for any error. i bought a roll of .0005' thick shim stock to do this. i just used a dial indicator mounted in an arm extension in a collet.
bridgeport mill where the head pivots front to back and side to side. on this machine, the readings are just what you need to get the spindle perpendicular to the table. the problem comes when you apply this method to a mill/drill. the head’s position is changed by adding shims under the 4 bolts that hold the column in place. tramming a mill/drill
if your milling table is flat, and your column is secured by 4 bolts in the base, you might want to consider this approach. bend a 1/2 inch bar into an 'l' shape. secure it to the spindle with a collet or chuck (doesn't matter as long as it does not move with respect to the spindle)
the problem is twofold. one, the beam divergence is proportional to distance so the there is no advantage to going out a further distance. the subtended angle remains the same the secind issue for using it for column rotation is that you will need to mark a line that is parallel to the mill column.
my dore westbury is a complete pig to get truly square, as not only does it have a round column, but it also has a round head support, one that allows the head to pivot sideways. aligning x and y is pretty straightforward, as the head 'swing' position doesn't do anything other than alter the effective cutting area on the table, it's getting the head square to the table that takes a fair bit of patience.
unlike the lathe, the mill needs some work right out of the crate to be usable. at a minimum the column needs to be trammed to do work of any precision at all. to really set up the mill properly the head needs to be aligned to the column first. the method is described nicely here: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.
on round column mills it is adjusted with shims under the column's base. always lock anything on the head/column/knee before tramming. a head on a column of any type will lean down if it is loose on that column. and the table on a knee mill will lean forward if the ways on that knee are not tight. tighten everything before tramming.
the chester is a round column mill with rotatable head in the x plane. so the endmill could be not true in the x plane but i thought this would lead to different finishes left and right so to speak, not front and back as is the case. anyway i need to check the alignment of the milling head and have heard about tramming. searching youtube
in before the lock! these machines suck not because of the round column. it's plenty sturdy. they suck because the base is flimsy and allows the round column to cantilever. this changes the distance between the cutter and workpiece, causing chatter and bad finishes.
raising and lowering the mill head on the column can easily result in repeatability issues. your best bet is to tram the column to the table and accept whatever variation can result in clamping and unclamping the head to raise and lower the head on the column.
since your head can tilt then only the y axis would still need to be correct to tram the spindle to the table and ensure as straight as possible drilled or bored deeper holes.there are various tricks and work arounds for these round column mills to maintain that spindle c/l while moving the head.
my old dore westbury has a round column. tramming on the x axis is easy. because the head can be tilted, but tramming on y involves shims. if precision is essential, i check the tram. i'm not sure if the column is dead straight, so while it might be perfectly trammed at one height, that might not be true when the height is changed.
aligning the vertical head – tramming. one of the key alignments on a vertical milling machine is setting the vertical head so that it is square with the milling table. this has to be so it is square in the x-z plane and in the y-z plane. all vertical heads, except on the smallest machines, are designed so that they can rotate in the x-z plane.
then i had a look at tramming the machine which went pretty smooth. started by pulling off the head and round column using an engine hoist. i used a gasket scraper to scrape away all the putty stuff at the edge and cleaned and oiled the flat surfaces. that way i could slip in a bit of shim stock and know i wasn't getting a bunch of gunk in with it.
someone, somewhere once posted their 'fix' for this round column problem. they firmly attached a laser pointer to the head of the mill, and placed a 'target' across the room to position the laser. i've never done the trig calcs but the claim was that you could move the head up or down and regain the datum you had?
i used this to tram my round column mill/drill, along with some shims. definetly less expensive than some of the other tramming tools out there, but it works for what i needed from it. i probably would recommend it to someone that was having tramming issues. if this review was helpful, go ahead and click that button.
tramming a lms solid column mini mill . 2015/01/26my lms solid column mini mill should be delivered on 12/31. i've been trying to do some preparation studying on setup, especially tramming. the only thing i can find deals with tramming the x axis of a non-solid column. is there any tramming necessary for the solid column if so, how is it. get price
my simple brass tramming arm is a piece of round stock turned to fit in the spindle on one end, and is press-fit into some bar stock on the other. the bar stock has a 250 thou reamed hole for a perfect snug fit on the dial-indicator’s post. tramming is an exercise in patience, but it isn’t difficult.
i was feeling lazy about tramming the mill this session, so used a square to square up the side of the column to the way of the base. one observation though: the column seems to be leaning forward. i find some time to properly tram it up in another session. using the square to align the column to the way of the base.
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